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Nähfail 2020

Nähfail 2020

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A short video of my latest dress The bodice looks

A short video of my latest dress The bodice looks quite fance with the shawl collar and the buttons. The whole pattern was originally meant to be much more loose that I made it. It was made to be closed only with the buttons, so the waist had to be wide enough to fit over the head. I didn’t want my dress to be that wide, so I chose to add a hidden zipper to the side seam, right under one sleeve. It’s totally invisible, but now the bodice and waist have a nice, tighter fit. #lasercat #sewingblog #sewinglove #testgarment #sewingblogger #vintagesewing #isewvintage #vintagepattern #sewingmagazine #fifties #fiftiesfashion #retrofashion #fiftiesdress #vintagestyle #vintagedress #blackdress #flaneldress

It’s done! A black flanel dress made from an ori

It’s done! A black flanel dress made from an original 1956s pattern. :-) It might look like „vintage widow style“, but it’s a perfect vintage wardrobe staple to wear everyday. It can be worn very vintage like I do here or in a more modern style with boots, sneakers or colorful tights.
Anyway, I’m never going to sew flanel again in the next years :-) The fabric is super fuzzy and it catches every cathair and piece of dust that is flying around. I just used my lint roller on it right before I took these photos and just ten minutes after it was full of fuss and cat hair again. This fabric is really not suitable for people with pets. When I sew that pattern again, I will use wool gabardine or jaquard. #lasercat #sewingblog #sewinglove #testgarment #sewingblogger #vintagesewing #isewvintage #vintagepattern #sewingmagazine #fifties #fiftiesfashion #retrofashion #fiftiesdress #vintagestyle #vintagedress #blackdress #flaneldress

No, that’s not my latest fashion design. It’s

No, that’s not my latest fashion design. It’s a test garment made from old scrap fabrics I found in my fabric stash. It’s my first test garment for the 1956s vintage dress pattern I’m sewing right now. I just made a test garment for the bodice of the dress, since the skirt is going just straight I didn’t need to test the pattern first.
After trying on the test garment I changed a few details on the pattern. I didn’t like the ¾ sleeves. I know they were quite fashionable in the 1950s, but for a winter dress I wanted them to be a little longer. I also made the waistline smaller and changed the placement of the darts in the front and back a little.
Sewing instructions like this always leave me with more questions than answers on how to make this dress.
The pattern only comes in one size. According to the size chart, this old size 44 seems to be a M in modern sizing. When I checked the measurements of the pattern I decided to grade it down a little on the shoulders and waist to fit me better
. In the picture it looks like a pencil dress, but checking the pattern made me realize, that this dress would have a more wide and loose fit. It doesn’t come with a zipper, so the buttons in the front are the only way to pull it on. This means, the waist has to be wide enough to fit over my head or my hips.
I decided that I didn’t want the dress to be that loose, so I graded down the waistline too and added a zipper to the side seam underneath the sleeve. That’s not very authentic, I know, but I didn’t want the dress to be too loose and I didn’t see another way to do this.
#lasercat #sewingblog #sewinglove #testgarment #sewingblogger #vintagesewing #isewvintage #vintagepattern #sewingmagazine #fifties #fiftiesfashion #retrofashion

I’m back to „real vintage sewing“! I picked

I’m back to „real vintage sewing“! I picked myself a dress pattern from „Günther Modeblatt“, a 1956s german sewing magazine. As you can see when you swipe, it looks like a straight cut dress with a shawl collar and buttons in the front. It comes in 9 pieces, only in one size and very short sewing instructions. At first, I’m making a test garment to check the patterns sizing and the fitting. Then I’m going to cut the black flanel fabric I chose for this dress. #lasercat #sewingblog #sewinglove #sewingblogger #vintagesewing #isewvintage #vintagepattern #sewingmagazine #fifties #fiftiesfashion #retrofashion

My serger is still broken, so I researched on ways

My serger is still broken, so I researched on ways to finish seam allowances without serging. It turned out quite fun, looking up techniques in my vintage sewing books and on the inside of my great-grandma’s handmade garments. Sewing machines in the 1950s didn’t have the „serger" stitches that modern ones have. The most common ways to finish seam allowances with a regular sewing machine in this time were using the zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent the seam allowances from fraying.
These work quite well for regular fabrics. The borders of thicker fabrics can be finished with a crossgrain ribbon or a bias tape. For light/thin fabrics I’m using French seams (or inside-out-seams) to hide the seam allowance completely without creating a bulky seam that shows on the outside.
But there are a few other techniques I didn’t know before. Did you ever use the so called “caterpillar stitch” to finish a visible border? It looks great in a contrasting color. Or did you use fray check to prevent borders from fraying?
My new sewing machine (Bernina B480) also brings a serger foot and a lot of fancy stitches to finish borders and seam allowances. I tried the „tricot stitch“ (Nr.14) for my Christmas bolero and it looks superfood. But using these stitches for finishing can be annoying: Due to the many little stitches the machine has to do, it takes some time to finish a seam border. It takes some patience to finish long borders like this. Also the serging stitches need a lot of yarn. So you have to think about buying an extra roll of yarn, when you plan to use them for your seam allowances. All my researched and tested methods of finishing the seam allowances without a serger you can find in my latest post on the @berninanaehmaschinen blog. So although there are many nice techniques to finish seam allowances without a serger, I’m planning on buying a new one :-) #lasercat #sewing #sewingblog #sewingblogger #sewinglove #sewingmachine #sewingstitches #vintagesewing #bernina

Pyjamaparty for one – The time between christmas

Pyjamaparty for one – The time between christmas and new years eve has been very quiet. I neither had a butler, nor imaginary friends that came for dinner. At least I fell twice over my cat when I got up to get myself new coffee. After being ill for two weeks and a stressful christmas time, I just didn’t feel like partying for the new year. That’s why I didn’t sew a fancy dress this year. I made a vintage-style pyjama. The top is a kimono-stlye wrap-jacket that is so komfortable. The whole pyjama is completed by topstitchted attachments of contrasting fabric on the neckline, sleeves and legs. Pattern: @burdastylegermany magazine, 12/2007
Fabric: Viscose twill (printed) Found on the @stoffmarkt.holland
and light pink cotton batiste, found at #lasercat #sewingblog #nähen #nähblog #nähliebe #sewinglove #pyjamasewing #vintagesewing #sewinglove #sewsagram #sewistsofinstagram #pyjama #schlafanzug #lockenwickler #vintagestyle

It’s the weekend, time to party! Or maybe sleep

It’s the weekend, time to party! Or maybe sleep long and have some tea and a good book with the cat? Okay, maybe I just got old and boring. :-) if you wonder what I’m reading here: It’s one of my oldest sewing books from the 1930s. I found it in my grandma’s basement, stuffed under a closets foot. My grandma was a very independent woman for her age, she disliked all „housewife“ things like sewing or needlework. She was more into stock trading and travelling. She might have gotten that book as a wedding gift and I’m sure, she never read it.
I, on the other hand, am so happy that I found this book. The lettering and language is pretty antique and not so easy to read, but there are some fantastic sewing tipps in this book and even a tutorial to draft vintage patterns. Maybe I’ll try some of these this year. Pattern: @burdastylegermany magazine, 12/2007
Fabric: Viscose twill (printed) Found on the @stoffmarkt.holland
and light pink cotton batiste, found at #lasercat #sewingblog #nähen #nähblog #nähliebe #sewinglove #pyjamasewing #vintagesewing #sewinglove #sewsagram #sewistsofinstagram #pyjama #schlafanzug #lockenwickler #vintagestyle

I love sewing vintage clothes as much as collectin

I love sewing vintage clothes as much as collecting "real" vintage pieces. Last year I found this original 50s/60s hat/fascinator on a trip to France at @betty_s_vintage . It perfectly matches my green vintage coat from @collectifclothing , which I found on a flea market a few months earlier. Discovering two vintage pieces in exactly the same color made me so happy and love to wear that set together (Over something handmade of course 🙃😉) now that it is the right weather for a coat. #lasercat #vintagefashion #vintageoutfit #vintagecoat #fascintor #vintagehat #fiftiesstyle #collectif #bettysvintage #toulon

How is your Overlocker doing? Mine is... well, ta

How is your Overlocker doing?
Mine is... well, take a close look at that seam. It's avery cheap overlocker that is about 12 years old. I use it only to finish seam allowances and it worked fine for me all these years.
Once a year I open the case, remove the dust inside, change the needles and check the blades. But now it seems that my overlocker might have reached the end of its lifetime. 😢 #sewingblog #sewing #nähblog #nähen #overlocker #overlock #sewinghelp #lasercat

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